...except when there is.
This photo was taken about a block from my apartment in Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires' so-called "bohemian" neighborhood. (In reality Palermo Soho is way too expensive for the average struggling Porteño artist and the neighborhood is more of an enclave for funky-yet-expensive boutique shops and ultra-modern restaurants, but that's a whole different issue.)
"Fuera Chinos" basically translates to "Chinese Get Out". Although the photo only shows one instance of the phrase, it was actually spraypainted several times on the walls of a local bakery. The bakery may or may not be owned by Chinese people, although the employees behind the counter are Asian.
To be fair, idiotic and racially-insensitive graffiti is not particularly extraordinary in Buenos Aires or anywhere else in the world. However, it is worth mentioning that this particular graffiti has been up for at least six months, as I first saw it within weeks of my initial arrival last December.
While this particular graffiti has more to do with the actions of a small-minded individual than some sort of society-wide discrimination, it does relate to the unusual dynamic between Argentinians and various immigrant communities. Argentina is an extremely white country, as approximately 97% of the population (scroll down) is of European descent, mostly Spanish and Italian. That number is even more surprising when Argentina is compared with a random sampling of other Latin American countries like Colombia (20% white), Peru (15% white) and Mexico (9% white). Even taking into account the large mestizo populations in those countries does little to prevent Argentinians from coming off as an overwhelmingly white bunch.
On the one hand, this ethnic homogeneity leads to relatively few racial problems in the country. I titled this blog entry "there is no racism in Argentina" because more than one Argentinian has said something along those lines to me. To a certain degree, the statement is true, as it is hard to discriminate against other races when relatively few people of other races live here. Discrimination based on other factors (especially economic and social class) is far more prevalent.
On the other hand, the lack of diversity certainly leaves the population with a certain lack of sensitivity when it comes to issues of race. Although the country is refreshingly free of the PC-induced fear which paralyzes so much of the racial discourse in the United States, the climate in Argentina also includes a surprising amount (at least for me) of offensive, or at least borderline racial comments. Earlier this year the federal government's National Institute Against Discrimination, Xenophobia and Racism (INADI) published a study that found discrimination against foreigners to be the most common form of discrimination in Argentina. Bolivians were the number one target, while Peruvians and Paraguayans also made the list.
Although the study included no mention of Asians, recent years have seen some problems between Argentinians and the largely Chinese Asian immigrant community. Much of the tension revolves around Asian-owned supermarkets, locally known as "chinos". Besides the questionable practice of basically referring to the stores as simply "Chinese", as in "let's go to the Chinese," a number of myths have arisen concerning everything from the Chinese mafia to questions over the stores' low prices and whether or not shop owners are paying their taxes.
None of this is meant to imply that Argentina is some sort of racist stronghold. Most countries struggle with issues of race and ethnicity and Argentina is no different. In a country where the existence of large ethnic minority populations is somewhat novel, many of the issues I've highlighted are nothing extraordinary and will likely subside with time.
After all, I also found this:
"Aguante Los Chinos" translates to "Go Chinese" or "Root for Chinese". Someone wrote this on the walls of the same bakery that was tagged with all the unpleasant "Fuera Chinos" messages.
Clearly, not everyone is one the same page when it comes to immigration and racial issues.
















